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DISEASE AND TREATMENT
Frequently Asked Questions

 

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  Do I need a quarantine (hospital) tank?

Yes!  Many people do not want to go through the lengthy process of quarantining fish prior to introducing them to their aquarium, but it is worth it.  Even when a responsible fish store proactively medicates fish before selling them, sometimes things slip by.  It is cost effective and sensible to quarantine because it can save you a lot of headache and a lot of money to treat something that you could have prevented.

A hospital tank is a place to put a fish that is sick for treatment with medications that you do not want to run in your aquarium.  For example, copper is a wonderful medication, but you don't want it in your reef or planted aquarium full of shrimp.  Hospital tanks give you many more options and make medicating less expensive because they are typically smaller and require smaller doses.
 
 
  My water is cloudy and my fish are dying. What do I do?

This is a common occurrence in new freshwater tanks that were set up too quickly with too little filtration.  Overfeeding during this time can exacerbate the problem.  Do a good water change, add AmGuard by Seachem to lock up any ammonia, and top it off with a hefty dose of Seachem's Stability to add a good bacteria bed. 
 
 
  My new fish always die.  Does that mean that they were sick when I bought them?

While it is possible that you got sick fish, if you are always having fish die right after putting them in, two possibilities are likely.  Be sure that your water quality is good.  Just because you have fish living in your aquarium does not mean that the water is OK.  Fish adapt over a long period of time to bad conditions that slowly worsen.  Perfectly healthy fish from an aquarium store may die within a few hours after being added to water that is in bad shape.  Even if they were acclimated appropriately, 45 minutes of acclimation is still a lot faster change than the months of change that the existing fish have had to get used to the water. 

Another possibility is that your new fish are being attacked by the resident fish.  Sometimes this happens behind your back, so just because you didn't see it doesn't mean it isn't happening.  Stand around the corner out of sight and watch your tank for a good long while.  You will have a better idea of whether or not this is the problem.  To avoid this situation, always be honest with your local fish store by telling them the size of your tank and exactly what you have in it.  If they refuse to sell you a fish because it isn't a good fit for your tank, they are protecting both your pocketbook and the life of the fish you wanted to buy.
 
 
 

When should you give a freshwater bath?

A freshwater bath is a method for removing some external parasites from saltwater fish. It is for fish only.  Do not do this to any invertebrate such as a crab, shrimp, snail, coral, or anemone.

It can be stressful for the fish, so care should be taken when performing this remedy.

     1.  Prepare a bucket of tap water. 

     2.  Add buffer to bring the pH up to  whatever your pH is in your aquarium.  A saltwater aquarium
          should be about 8.2 to 8.3.

     3.  Dechlorinate the water using Seachem's Prime.

     4.  Heat the water to be the same temperature as the aquarium where the fish lives.

     5.  Net the fish and gently lower it into the bucket. 

     6.  Watch the fish carefully for signs of undue stress.  It is not unusual for the fish to wriggle a bit
          or scrape up against the side of the bucket from time to time.  The parasites are
          uncomfortable for the fish and they will be wriggling off the fish while this procedure is
          happening.  If the fish continually thrashes about or does not relax into a cautious state after
          about 30 seconds, consider returning the fish to the aquarium.  Some fish do not tolerate
          freshwater baths well.

     7.  Providing that the fish is tolerating the bath well, you can generally leave it there between 3-5
          minutes.  Remember to watch the fish closely for any sign that it is having great difficulty. 
          Some fish can tolerate freshwater baths for up to 15 - 30 minutes, but this is generally not
          recommended. 

     8.  Return the fish to the aquarium and discard the water.

 
  If I use copper, will it stay in my tank forever?

Copper definitely can linger for a long time in an aquarium.  For this reason, if you even think you might want to have invertebrates such as shrimp (freshwater or saltwater) then NEVER use copper.  It hides out in rock, gravel, silicone, and anything else in your aquarium that has pores.

To be on the safe side, if you know that an aquarium has been coppered before, don't try to put invertebrate life (crabs, corals, etc.) in it.  Either get another aquarium or be content with a fish only aquarium.

 

 
  Help!  I went on vacation and my friend used a medication that may have contained copper!

There are a couple of remedies to remove copper.  NorthSide Aquatics recommends Cuprisorb by Seachem because it works in both fresh and saltwater.  You can also use a PolyFilter pad for freshwater.

In either case, ensure that you have good flow throughout the aquarium so that water can carry the copper to the resin or pad that will be absorbing it.

The only way to know if copper is no longer present is to use a copper test.  Leave the copper removing resin in at least 2 weeks after you test 0 for copper content.

 

 
  So what medications do I use for what?

NorthSide Aquatics stocks the following medications.  Please consult with us so we can help you choose the right medication for your type of aquarium.  Thank you to Seachem for providing us with the chart below.  We have made some addenda to it.
 
Symptoms Disease Treatment
Fish appears bloated to the point of bursting.  Scales become raised and stick out.  The anus is often inflamed.  Commonly occurs with popeye (See below) Dropsy KanaPlex (Seachem)
Focus (Seachem)
Eyes protrude or appear to be "popping out" of their sockets Popeye KanaPlex (Seachem)
Focus (Seachem)
NeoPlex (Seachem)
Fins appear shredded, frayed, or decaying. Fin & Tail Rot ParaGuard (Seachem)
NeoPlex (Seachem)
Sulfathiazole (Seachem)
KanaPlex (Seachem)
PolyGuard (Seachem)
Thin white or grey threads appear and over time they build up their mass until they appear like fluffy patches of cotton. Fungus ParaGuard (Seachem)
NeoPlex (Seachem)
Sulfathiazole (Seachem)
KanaPlex (Seachem)
PolyGuard (Seachem)
Streaky or blotchy reddening appearing on the fins near the body or under the scales. Bacterial Hemorrhagic Septicemia NeoPlex (Seachem)
Sulfathiazole (Seachem)
KanaPlex (Seachem)
Holes that widen the sensory pores in the heads of large fish Hexamita / Hole-in-the-Head Disease (HITH) Metronidazole (Seachem)
Paraguard (Seachem) used as a dip
Ick:  The fish appears sprinkled with grit or coarse sand.  Fish rub against hard objects to free themselves of the parasite.

Velvet: Surface appears dull and in heavy infections, the fish takes on a yellowish or yellow-brown velvety texture.  This is most easily seen looking at the fish head-on. 

Ick (Ichthyopthirius, cryptocaryon) and Velvet (Oodinium, etc.) Cupramine (Seachem)
Metronidazole (Seachem)
AquaZole (Seachem)
ParaGuard (Seachem)
PolyGuard (Seachem)
White stringy material hanging off of the body accompanied by white sores around the mouth.  In advanced stages, a pale saddle appears over the back of the fish Columnaris Binox (Jungle)
Rally's (Ruby Reef)
 
 
 
Will a UV sterilizer help me?

In general, UV sterilizers are not a bad thing.  They can help prevent disease from jumping from one fish to the other by killing them in the water column, and they can be effective against the freshwater pea soup condition called "green water" (not harmful to fish).

UV sterilizers must be used with caution because they are indiscriminate killers.  They kill both bad bacteria and good, so if you are adding a bacteria supplement, turn off your UV filter for 48 hours so that the bacteria can bind to surfaces.  UV can also be harmful when dosing medications.  Always be sure to read the labels carefully.

 

 
  My fish suddenly died.  Why did this happen?

This is a difficult question to answer without knowing anything about your aquarium.  Here are some questions for you to ask yourself:

1.  Do not overstock your tank!  We can’t stress this enough.  Too many fish means too much poop, which means too much Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.  If you are unsure about how many fish are appropriate for your tank, ask us.

2.  Do I overfeed?  Feeding once every other day is generally sufficient for most fish.  If you are feeding multiple times a day or pouring fish food into your aquarium like it is in a salt shaker rather than adding it by individual pinches, this is a possible cause.  It can pollute the water and it can cause fish to die from complications of obesity.

3.  Are my fish compatible?  There are a number of rules governing the successful addition of fish to any aquarium.  If you bought a fish just because you liked it and added it to your aquarium without knowing anything about that fish, then this could be the reason it or your other fish died.  The new fish could have been very aggressive or very docile and a fight might have occurred.  You would never consider putting a tiger in the same room as a newborn kitten just because they are both types of cat.  Always do your research first!

4.  Do I dechlorinate my water?  If you are using tap water in your aquarium and you do not add something to it each time you put in new water, then this could be your problem.  Many people add "stuff" to the water because it came with the aquarium, but they do not know what the "stuff" in the bottle does.  Inform yourself.  Read the label.  It may not be a dechlorinator.  Chlorine destroys gill tissue and causes fish to die of suffocation.

5.  Do I have an adequate filter that is populated with good bacteria?  Without a filter to remove poop and bacteria to process waste, fish can die of ammonia or nitrite poisoning.  Like chlorine, ammonia and nitrite destroy the fish's gills and cause it to lose the ability to breathe.  Breathing is important - make sure you have a good filter.

6.  Do I keep my aquarium free of decaying food?  Decaying food and other debris, especially in large quantities, release toxic gasses that can kill fish.  You would not want to live in a room full of rotting hamburgers and glasses of milk that had gone bad, not to mention piles of human poop all over the floor.  Do your fish a favor and vacuum the gravel.

7.  Am I feeding my fish the right food?  Not all fish foods are created equal!  Be sure that the food you are feeding your fish is the right one.  You wouldn't feed your child "Cheesy Poofs" every day of its life, just because it is a type of "human food".  Ask about the nutritional value of what you are feeding.  Also, provide a variety of foods that mimic the fish's normal diet.  A very common cause of fish death is constipation.  Often this comes from feeding a cheap food full of filler material that can't be digested.  It can also be caused by feeding too much protein to a vegetarian fish.  Also in reference to feeding, remember, no fish eats goldfish as a natural food source!  They are toxic, as are many other "feeder fish".  Do your research first!  Feeder fish can also carry disease to your aquarium.  It's just better to buy frozen.

8.  Is that air freshener (or other aerosol) really so important to you?  Many people do not realize that what is in the air around us such as room fresheners and scented candles actually gets into the water of the aquarium.  While many of these things are not always terribly harmful to us, they can be to fish.  Please smoke in another room and if you can live with the wall color, please don't repaint while the fish tank is in the room.

9.  Have I replaced my heater within the last year?  It is a fact of life that aquarium heaters fail. They are much like light bulbs - expendable.  Even the good ones break.  Typically when a heater breaks, the thermostat is the first thing to go.  That means the heating mechanism continues to heat unregulated.  By the time you notice, it's usually too late.  Replace your heater around a holiday so you can remember to do it every year.

10.  Does my fish look scraped or nicked somewhere?  Fish often hurt themselves swimming between rocks or through ornaments.  It happens.  You can select decor that has rounded surfaces and holes large enough for fish to swim in and out of easily.  That might help, but it's no guarantee - much like there's no guarantee you won't break your ankle walking through your own back yard.  It's not likely, but it can happen.

11.  Does my aquarium have proper circulation?  Good oxygenation of the water is necessary for fish to be healthy.  One way to assure that your fish are getting enough oxygen is to improve circulation.  In saltwater tanks this is commonly done using powerheads.  They are also appropriate in most freshwater tanks.  The one exception to that is a planted tank where too much water movement can outgas the CO2 needed for the plants. 

It is a good idea to have an intake tube that grabs water from the bottom of the tank and returns it to the top while rippling the top of the water.  Water near the bottom of the tank lacks oxygen and the water vibration at the top of the tank infuses oxygen.  You can also add a bubble wand to the tank to get better oxygenation.  While the large oxygen bubbles that you see moving from the bottom to the top of the tank don't add oxygen, when they pop at the top of the water the movement causes infusion of oxygen.

12.  Are there exposed wires that are rusting in the aquarium?   Many people get creative in their ways to hang lights, powerheads, and whatever else is missing a hanger.  Oftentimes people will turn to a stiff wire such as a paper clip or a coat hanger to do the job.  Don't do this because metal leaches out into the tank and gets into the body of the fish.  Metal is toxic.  If this has happened to you, NorthSide recommends Cuprisorb and/or Purigen to help remove the metallic toxins. 

13.  Have I tried to fix a problem too quickly?  Sometimes a well intentioned efforts to fix a problem in an aquarium have ill effects.  It is commonly understood that taking a fish from a clean environment and putting it into a dirty environment can cause harm to the fish.  What is not so commonly understood is that the exact opposite is true.  Taking a fish from a very unhealthy environment ant putting it into a very clean environment can cause it to go into shock and die.

What this means is that if you have neglected your tank by not doing monthly water changes, have been overfeeding, and have allowed the pH to drop because you haven't been adding buffer you are in for a lot of problems when you decide to really clean the tank.  Think of it like this:  You have spent the last 5 hours in a deep freezer barely surviving.  Suddenly the door to that deep freezer opens and you run out into the middle of the Mojave Desert at midday.  Your system is likely to go into shock.  That is what is happening to the fish.

Instead of trying to fix things in one afternoon, plan a series of water changes and gradual pH adjustments by adding some buffer to the water.  Your fish will thank you.

14.  Is your decor aquarium safe?  It is a common thing for people to look for unusual items to put in their aquariums.  While uniqueness is cool, the fact that many out of the ordinary decorations are not aquarium safe makes for a lot of trouble.  Items can be metallic, they might be unwashed from another aquarium, or they could contain other contaminants that can leach out into the water over time.  Do your fish a favor and buy rock and decor from a reputable aquarium store.  Rocks and decor found there are known to be free of unknown contaminants.

15.  Do you have stray electricity?  Believe it or not, stray electricity is a very common problem and can kill fish over time.  A number of people are not sensitive to electric shock in water unless it is very strong.  If you are having strange fish deaths, test your water with a multi-meter.  If you find stray voltage, start unplugging items.  You may find that more than one electrical item is causing your problem. 

16.  Did you medicate recently?  Some medications have the ability to hang around for longer than you realize.  Read all medication directions carefully to make sure that they are safe for your tank inhabitants.  Always remove any carbon on the tank while medicating and then replace it when you are done.  Don't forget to turn off your UV filter while you medicate.  It can make some medications toxic - especially those that contain copper.

17.  Did you remove that dead fish as soon as you found it?   Sometimes people get grossed out by the idea of handling a dead fish and have, therefore, have been known to leave dead fish in their tanks.   Polluted water from dead fish remains is full of toxic ammonia. One dead fish left in the tank can cause a domino effect, killing the other fish.

 

 

7610 Counts Massie Rd.
Maumelle, AR 72113

501-803-3434
store@nsaquatics.com

 
  

Store Hours

Tuesday - Friday  11 AM - 8 PM

Saturday              10 AM - 5 PM
 
Sunday                  1 PM - 6 PM
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